- Fri 26 February 2021
- Basics
- not-yet-8c-climber
- #Climbing, #Adventure, #Climber Jargon, #Rock Climbing, #Bouldering, #Mountaineering
If you're stepping into the world of climbing, whether it’s rock climbing, bouldering, or mountaineering, you’ll quickly find that it has its own unique language. Understanding climber jargon is essential not just for safety but also for bond-building within the climbing community. Here’s a guide to some essential terms you need to know before you gear up and hit the crag.
1. Crux
Often referred to as the hardest move or section of a climb, the crux is the pivotal moment that can make or break your ascent. It’s where you need to channel all your skills and mental fortitude to push past your limits.
2. Beta
Beta is insider information about a climbing route—like specific techniques or sequences that can help you navigate difficult sections. Sharing beta is a common practice among climbers, as it can make the difference between success and failure on the rock.
3. Flash
The term “flash” refers to successfully climbing a route on your first attempt after having seen it done by another climber. This is often considered a badge of honor and can be quite challenging if the route is particularly difficult.
4. On-Sight
When you climb a route without any prior knowledge of it and without any falls, you’re said to have "on-sighted" the climb. It’s a mark of skill and instinct, as you have to rely solely on your judgment and technique.
5. Outdoor Vs Indoor
While many climbers start their journey in indoor climbing gyms, the terminology starts to shift as you transition to outdoor climbing. Indoor: controlled environment, climbing walls with various holds. Outdoor: natural rock faces with unpredictable terrain.
6. Chalking Up
Applying chalk to your hands helps reduce moisture and improve grip, especially when climbing on tough holds or in humid conditions. A climber often stops halfway up a route to “chalk up” for the next few challenging moves.
7. Pitch
A pitch is a section of the climb that can be completed in one continuous effort, typically to a belay anchor. Multi-pitch climbs consist of several pitches, often requiring the climber to switch leadership roles and manage gear changes along the way.
8. Belay
To belay is to manage the rope for a climber, providing them with necessary support in case they fall. This essential skill not only ensures safety but also allows for communication between climbers, making it a crucial part of the climbing experience.
9. Screamer
A “screamer” refers to a type of quickdraw that elongates and catches a fall, dissipating energy and reducing the risk of injury. It’s a great name that reflects the intensity of climbing—both from the climber in the air and the gear that’s working hard to keep them safe.
10. Top-Rope
Top-roping is a setup where the rope runs from an anchor at the top of the route back down to the climber, providing them with continuous protection against falls. This is often a preferred method for beginners as it builds confidence while climbing.
11. Dyno
A “dyno” is a dynamic move where the climber leans or lunges toward a hold, often leaving the rock and generating momentum to grab the next hold. It’s an impressive display of strength and coordination.
12. Sloper
Slopers are holds that require open-handed grip strength. They may not have any positive edges to hold onto, making them tricky and more dependent on body positioning to maintain contact.
13. Runout
This term describes a section of rock that is on a route where there are fewer anchors or protection points. A runout can increase the risk of a fall, making climbers feel more mental pressure and engage their focus.
14. Drop-Knee
A climbing technique where the climber drops one knee toward the rock while maintaining the other leg on a foothold. This maneuver can help reach tricky holds and gain balance, showcasing the grace and precision required in climbing.
15. Send
In climbing terms, to “send” a route means to successfully complete it without falling. This is a celebrated moment for every climber, signifying that they've conquered the challenge before them.
As you venture into the vertical world, or perhaps embark on your first climbing trip with friends, remember that these terms can not only bridge your understanding but also deepen your connection with fellow climbers. Embrace the lingo, share some beta, and soon, you'll find yourself confidently chatting about your next crux or the sweetest send you just accomplished. The rock is waiting, and adventure is calling!